Lawn Watering Instructions and lawn and gardening, lawn fall, yard maintenance
The MOST IMPORTANT ELEMENT to ensuring the success of your new lawn!
IMMEDIATELY water your lawn after it’s installed until it’s completely saturated and the soil under the middle of the sod roll is wet. If watered insufficiently, the middle of the roll will still be dry causing yellowing of grass. You can check to ensure the sod and soil are wet or damp by lifting up a corner- have a peak!
Watering times varies depending on your sprinkler system and how hot it is outside but 2 - 3hrs is generally our recommendation. (approx 1-2" of water) Put a water gauge or a tuna can on your lawn to measure the amount. The best time to water is in the early morning (before 8am) this minimizes water lost through evaporation and wind. Watering in the evening leaves the grass wet for longer, increasing the risk of disease.
- Do NOT walk on grass immediately after install- you’ll likely sink if it’s watered adequately.
- Use your judgment based on how hot it is outside. In the middle of summer the lawn will require longer watering applications.
- The soil should NEVER dry out before the roots grow into the soil (first 10 days).
- Avoid frequent light watering which results in shallow rooting and water for longer periods less often.
- Allow about 10 days before heavy traffic.
- When your newly installed lawn has reached a growth of 4-5 or more inches you can begin to mow it. Do not let it grow much longer than five inches
- Set your mower’s height adjustment to its maximum for the first couple cuts and gradually lower the setting. Do not mow shorter than 3".
- Don’t worry about picking up the clippings – leave them right where they fall. They’ll decompose quickly and provide a nitrogen boost to your new lawn (but do remove any particularly large clumps of cut grass immediately after mowing). After you’ve finished mowing, water your lawn well. Sod/grass goes into mild shock after it’s been cut, and watering helps regain its food-synthesizing capacity.
- Be careful when mowing for the first couple times. The grass roots will typically be very shallow and can be damaged easily.
- Keep your mower blade sharp!
- As with all lawns (new or old) make sure the grass is dry when you mow. In fact, mid afternoon mowing is always best
- Think of mowing your new lawn like pruning: It makes your grass healthier by allowing light down to the root crown, encouraging it to produce new blades to spread out and fill in, creating that uniform, dense carpet we all know and love.
- The type of fertilizer you use and the timing of the application are important. Compost or slow-release fertilizers are preferable, and fertilizing in early fall promotes vigorous lawn growth the following spring.
- Before fertilizing lawns, read the instructions on the bag carefully (or ask someone at the store for details). Should you wish to let the pro’s handle seasonal fertilizer and grub treatments call Green Unlimited at 613-744-7336
- Regular fertilizing is important not only for your new lawn but for your established lawn too, It provide essential nutrients to your lawn and also keep your new lawn lush and thick in order to help reduce and choke out weeds.
Aerating your lawn allows a better flflow of water, air and vital nutrients to the plant roots, making it easier for them to grow. Aeration is best done in early spring and fall and can be done in conjunction but prior to overseeding and/or topdressing. (call us in the early spring or fall to have us aerate your lawn!)
- Regularly spreading grass seed on your lawn will ensure that it remains dense.
- Over-seeding is best done in late summer to early fall.
- Topdressing with compost or topsoil can be done at the same time.
- Using the proper type of grass seed is very important for lawns in shady areas.
Raking will be your first task of spring lawn care. Okay, I can hear the groans coming from all lands near and far. Raking is for controlling thatch (dead grass) and stimulating the grass roots so it’s advised to do this at least once a year.